auto exhaust systems

Also available at great Auto Parts Discount deals are exhaust system parts for Honda. Combustion cycle doesn't stop at the compression stage wherein the air and fuel mixture is prepared for ignition. After the spark plug has fired and ...The modifications are concealed – until ignition – by a painted-to-match engine cover, and announced by Road Race's own 'Integrated Sport' dual exhaust system. The Road Race Kizashi can be seen at the Zeitronix Booth #21212. ...Tubular Exhaust System Installation Instruction Toyota Tacoma 1995-1998 This Edelbrock Tubular Exhaust System has received an Executive Order number (EO#)Hence, aside from giving you premium quality exhaust system auto parts, the store also offers great Auto Parts Discount deals for every replacement and aftermarket auto part you purchase. Best deals are offered on thousands of quality ...Remember that all AMG's are auto's and they have a lovely sound :-) Back to your question, what you mean by a sports exhaust, I guess you may be meaning loud or are we talking a free flowing system? If my exhaust were to crumble I ...A lot of heat is generated in a car's engine, and while much of it is used to propel the vehicle, a large amount of heat does go waste and escape with the exhaust gases. GM is creating a system to capture this exhaust heat and convert ...Our Accuracy Bounty program assures system accuracy. Types of Shops Currently Running Independent Auto Repair Shops Heavy Duty Truck Repair Shops Transmission Shops Radiator Shops Tire Shops Tune-Up Shops Muffler & Exhaust Shops Brake ...HKS hipermax adj adsorber kakimotor full stanless steel exhaust system 17" volk racing CE28 sport rim (ori japan ) call 016 238 3654 loc : cheras. Attached Thumbnails. nissan skyline GTT 2.5 turbo Auto-dsc00208.jpg · nissan skyline GTT ...Sorry for bringing this topic up, but anyone have suggestion on Exhaust systems that are not TOO loud and give the E60 a bit more character w/out. ... m5board.com Advertisers are: Avus Autosport California ASR Engineering Bavarian Soundwerks Bimmertools.com CA Automotive Dinan Cars Evosport getBMWparts.com GTboard.com Support this site, order: Supercar Shooutout I: Event at Koenigsegg DVD Supercar Shooutout II: 40+ car in action incl. BMW M3 E92 Hartge (Member discount) ...Product Line: MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust Kits Part Type: Exhaust Systems Part Number: MPE-15815. Exit Quantity: Dual Exit Location: Rear System Material: Stainless steel. System Finish: Natural System Style: Crossmember back ...
I drive a Auto 02 corolla with 120,000 miles. when the check engine light came on back in may, friend drove it to the shop for 2 days to fix. After i got it back i was told the exhaust pipe needs to be replaced(or something with the exhaust system i wasn't there) so the CEL dissapeared for a week then came back on, i been driving it with the CEL on since may, it makes very loud noise when i step on the gas pedal. should i keep driving it? it doesnt affect the engine right?
Thanks


I own a 1996 BMW 328i. It's auto with 85,500 original miles. Stock except for the wheels, tinted windows, and head unit. Someone is interested in trading me a 1998 Firebird formula 6 speed ls1 with 138k miles but 40k on a rebuilt motor. It has some mods which are Ram air, Ls6 cam, long tube headers, true dual rumbler exhaust system, spec stage 4 clutch, spec aluminum flywheel, 4:11 rear end, and 5.0 short shifter. I've always wanted a t/a and this seems to be a good deal to me. I've had the bmw for 2 months and i love it but the firebird is my favorite car and Ive always wanted one. The guy is looking for a 4 door car because he has kids now and needs more of a family car. My biggest issue is the fact that it's just about winter now here in new england but i don't think either car will be good in the winter weather. I'm just looking for some input and advice on whether or not I should pursue the trade or just say no.


my talon runs like a charm when warm
but when its cold it takes forever to get going
also my dash lights flicker on and off randomly when i dont even have the switch on. or my headlights turned on...also the running lights go on and off with the dash lights... randomly

the car has new exhaust system with a fart can

new ignition system wires distrubutor etc...its all been done

fuel system as well.

havent checked compression however i think its fine. cause it runs good and starts good when warm. ( no smoke or using oil)

its a 1993 eagle talon 1.8 litre inline 4cylinder with 219k

i have read on the review for consumer guide auto.com for this car that there is an electrical issue that causes this hard start or no start issues with a splice in the wiring that corrodes... they said its near the left headlight is left looking at the front of the car or left sitting in the car.

which wire could it be? or is there another issue that causes this that you know about? i give up please let me know...also what could cause dash lights and headlights to flicker? thanks for any help...


I have a 1976 Bronco and would like to replace everything so it won't break down and leave me stranded as I have difficulty walking long distances. This includes new/rebuilt V 6/V8, new/rebuilt auto transmission, complete braking system, lights and wiring, electrical system, exhaust system, anything and everything to make it so it appears as is was manufactured last year.


I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. It's a 6 cylindar. The engine size is 2.7. The check engine light has been on and I took it to an auto parts store to see why and they said I need a new 02 sensor, but they didn't know which one was bad. The reading that printed out says:

BBHO2s12 circuit condition (heated oxygen sensor bank BB1 sensor 2)
Explanation
BBThe powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust.
Probable cause:
BB1-Oxygen sensor defective
BB2- Fuel system running very rich or lean-check other codes first
BB3- engine misfire condition-repair
BB4- Fuel pressure very high or low-fuel pump or pressure regulator

What does all this mean? I am trying to purchase the o2 sensor online, but don't know which one to choose.


I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. It's a 6 cylindar. The engine size is 2.7. The check engine light has been on and I took it to an auto parts store to see why and they said I need a new 02 sensor, but they didn't know which one was bad. The reading that printed out says:

BBHO2s12 circuit condition (heated oxygen sensor bank BB1 sensor 2)
Explanation
BBThe powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust.
Probable cause:
BB1-Oxygen sensor defective
BB2- Fuel system running very rich or lean-check other codes first
BB3- engine misfire condition-repair
BB4- Fuel pressure very high or low-fuel pump or pressure regulator

What does all this mean? I am trying to purchase the o2 sensor online, but don't know which one to choose.
I said I went to the Auto Parts store, and they said they don't know what one is bad. They gave me the print out. Read the question before you answer.
Sorry, the code was P0138


Its a six cylinder and i know it wont be as loud as a 8 cyclinder but what can i do to make it be the loudest it can be and if anyone knows what auto shop can i but the stuff and have it installed at. I live in Houston,Tx


I thought Everyone is insured under the free market?

One volunteer dentist who spoke to the local media said that conditions in Los Angeles were worse than in Brazil, where he has done equivalent charity work. “They have a nice system of public hospitals and clinics,” he said, referring to Brazil. A volunteer doctor, when asked about the difference between Third World conditions and those in Los Angeles, responded, “Here the people speak English.”

According to local press accounts, among those seeking help at the clinic were:

• A homeless man who camped outside in order to get glasses
• An unemployed grocery clerk needing a root canal
• A laid-off auto mechanic with back pain
• A laid-off office worker uninsured for two years
• A cancer patient who had exhausted her benefits under her HMO plan
• A community college student with sinus problems and blurred vision
• A laid-off security guard who needed glasses
• An unemployed grocery clerk with a toothache
• A woman whose children are covered under the state Medi-Cal plan but lacks insurance for herself
• A county government worker whose dental insurance deductibles were too high to afford treatment for her husband and three-year-old daughter
• A retired welder who lost his coverage while he was in the middle of getting dentures
• A couple, both employed, who between them needed dentures, a general physical, a breast exam and a pap smear
• A diabetic amputee who could not afford to buy needed drugs
• A retiree needing an X-ray for a lung problem
• A 70-year-old Vietnam vet who put off a root canal for two years because the VA hospital was overwhelmed with more urgent cases
• A 63-year-old woman who received her first new pair of glasses in five years
• A 46-year-old woman who had an abnormal pap smear last year but was unable to follow up because Medi-Cal denied her coverage.


My 00 Auto max legitimately gets 11 miles to the gallon city and 13 highway. I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow, but the mechanics there like to only look at things I point out to them, and fix it. for example, my car was having problems starting up so I told them to look at the starter ... so they replaced the starter three times before they realized all I needed was a new battery and jumpstart. I didn't have to pay for any of this, thankfully. What are some things I should point out to the mech to take a look at? Things on my list so far..exhaust leak, o2 sensor, loose gaskets, what else? Throttle body cleaning maybe?

I always fill up with BP 91+ but lately have been filling up with 87 because it doesn't make a difference what octane fuel I use. I still get the same ****ty mileage. I recently installed a makeshift shortram intake, cleaned my MAF, did a intake system cleansing using seafoam but no significant changes in mpg. I have a CEL for the swirl valve but I doubt that's causing my problems.
It's not my intake. I changed this a few days ago, and if anything it helped the issue.
Tune ups have been done with no improvement. I've been using Jiffy Lube to do oil changes though, so my next step is to do an oil change using Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30


I took my 2002 Subaru WRX, which was otherwise in excellent condition (75K well-maintained California-driven miles), in for a repair to the heating system -- it was leaking exhaust into the cabin. Somehow, during the repair, the tech dropped a washer into the fuel line and it got into one of the cylinders, scoring it and thereby destroying the engine.

The dealer gave me a loaner and replaced the engine at their cost with a junker that had 60K miles. Within half a day after getting the repaired car back, the check engine light came on. Then my battery went dead. I brought the car in and they found that the alternator hadn't been tightened down during the engine replacement. They did a fix and then found that my brand-new battery had been drained. They did a partial recharge until I got frustrated and demanded to leave after waiting patiently for almost 6 hours with my 1.5 year old son, being told all the while to hold on, that it would be another 30 minutes.

On the drive back home, the check engine light came on again. I brought the car back in. They said I should have the spark plugs replaced, which I did at my expense: $225. After getting the car, the check engine light came on the next day.

I drove around for about a month with the check engine light fluctuating on and off every week or so. I wanted to see if I could make a more accurate diagnosis about what was going on. Also, I wanted to check the miles-per-gallon performance, and indeed, saw that it had deteriorated by almost 25%.

I brought the car back in. After 4 hours, again with my son (I'm the primary care giver), they said the computer indicated that a fuel injector was probably clogged and that they would replace it at their cost. But then they said that my gas was dirty and that they would have to flush the gas tank. They gave me a loaner. Four days later, with a clean tank and a new fuel filter, the car was ready. My expense: $913.55.

I did some grocery shopping and drove the car home. Along the way, the check engine light came on again. By that time, the dealership was closed. Over the weekend, my spouse took the car shopping with our son (the car seat is in my car and isn't easy to swap in and out). I got a panicked call saying the car was billowing something that looked like steam. After limping home, it was obvious that the coolant system had sprung a leak. Exact location unknown, but it looks like at the connection point to the engine block, which would be consistent with them not connecting it securely after mounting the replacement engine.

All together, this has been going on for about 6 months. Between waiting at the dealer, trips back & forth to the dealer, and my spouse's time, we've probably lost 15 hours of work time. I'm an independent consultant, so time = $ for me.

Even though I don't live in California any more, the car has more than 90% of its miles in California. Other than some paint chips caused by road rocks, and a touch of rust on the exhaust caused by 1 season of salted roads, the car is very clean.

I'm thinking of demanding they purchase the car at retail Kelly blue-book value. What do you think I should do? Do I have any legal recourse? Do I get my insurance company involved? What leverage do I have over the dealership?

Thanks for reading this long account. I look forward to some interesting suggestions.
Dealer did issue a 1 year warranty on engine from date of install. Worst case, I would expect the warranty to be extended to the time from which the last repair relating to this incident was completed.


I have a stock 1995 Trans Am LT1 with an auto transmission. I recently purchased a flowmaster american thunder exhaust (cat-back)
I am not looking to spend alot of money at this point but I really want to make it fast as some of my friends have bought cars with LS1 engines. What the best ways to increase my hp? I am also planning on buying a ram-air hood/system. Anything at all but perferablly less expensive. Any ideas for how to make the interior better? upgrade speakers? Basically anything to make my TA out perform and look more impressive than the newer LS1's

Thanks Alot


Well I have exhausted every effort I can think of searching for a job in Boston - where I currently reside - and have stretched my arm out to every resource and network I have, including monster.com, bostonrecruiter.com, craigslist.com, 2 different staffing agencies, friends, family, random people I meet at public places, as a "walk-in", etc. I'm a 2008 grad of Ohio University with a B.S. in Industrial Technology with a focus on Manufacturing Information Technology and a minor in Business Management. I don't necessarily want to work in that career field, but I will take what I can get. I would like to go back to school for my Masters in another field. For now, I cannot seem to grasp any real job leads, and when and if I do, they are already taken or responded to by the hundreds/thousands of unemployed citizens of Boston metro. Even labor/bartending/hospitality/construction/concierge/landscaping opportunities are either taken already, or they have so many applicants that have replied, they can be "choosy" on whom they want to employ. I know that there are unemployed people out there with their Masters and even Doctorates looking for work, even labor jobs, just to pay the bills. My question is, is there anyone, ANYONE, that may have somewhat of a job lead for this individual? It's pretty bold and drastic to ask such a question on here, and I don't want to sound "desperate", but let's face it, I am, and so are hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of Americans. Here's my resume and skills. Let me know what you think, thanks everyone.

Daniel

Relevant skills:
Microsoft Office(Excel, Powerpoint, Outlook, etc.)
Java Applet
c++ java
Auto CAD
Solid Modeling AutoCad
Mechanical Desktop
MS Excel for data analysis
Linux Operating System
Macintosh Operating System
Adobe Flash
Adobe Dreamweaver
Adobe Illustrator
HTML
Marketing
Promotions
Business Management
Balance Sheets(acct. I and II)
Construction/Labor(framing, roofing, drywalling, painting, soldering copper
pipe, etc.)

Resume:
Daniel x. xxxxxxxxxx
xx xx. xxxxxx xx. Boston, MA. 02xxx xxx.xxx.xxxx dm179204@ohio.edu


Objective
To bring to your organization enthusiasm, dedication, responsibility, and good work ethic, combined with a desire to utilize my skills and education obtained through my experience in the following areas:



Education
Ohio University, Athens, OH.
9/8/03 - 11/21/08 Major: Industrial Technology, focused on Manufacturing Information Technology, Minor: Business Management, Degree: Bachelor of Science.
Achievements: Cum Laude honors by obtaining a 3.649 GPA. A.S.C.E. Scholarship, Dean’s Quarterly list, Alumni member of Phi Kappa Theta National Fraternity, Ohio Psi Chapter, active community service through Phi Kappa Theta for Habitat for Humanity and Rural Appalachian Housing Development.

Northeastern University, Boston, MA
9/4/00 - 6/14/02 Major: Civil Engineering, Degree: Working towards Bachelors of Science.
Achievements: A.S.C.E. Scholarship, Freshman year.




Experience
Concierge Manager
1/15/09 - 05/03/09, Elite Services Inc./House of Blues, Boston, MA.
Job title included managing concierge services and coat check. Some of my duties included consistently checking the status of our bathroom attendants and the organization of our coat check area, as well as some finalization of paperwork for the closing day’s ledger reports, etc.


Design, Construction and Public Relations
9/1/99 - 9/8/04, Suburban Rails Inc., Athens, OH.
As a member of the design and building team, I would travel to the contract destinations as a sub-contract employee. My tasks included public relations with the community and City Councils that resided in the specific city/state that we were erecting such parks, and the production of indoor/outdoor, skate/bike park facilities for private or community contracts.


Bartender, Server
9/8/03 - 06/15/04, Toscano’s, Athens, OH.
Duties included preparing spirits and alcoholic beverages for customers, quality control, weighing out product every week and reordering, itemizing and stocking inventory and crowd detail as well as identification inspection.


Civil Engineer Internship,
10/1/02 - 1/7/03, City of Quincy D.P.W., Engineer Division, Quincy, MA.
My assignments as an intern city engineer consisted of assisting the lead city engineer and staff with developing and/or revising city specifications, ordinances, standard details and/or regulations pertaining to streets, water, sanitary sewer, solid waste and storm drainage and presenting to Council for approval as needed.






ReferencesReferences are available on request.


I am looking for a 09 Lexus es 350. i contacted couple of dealers and they sent me this invoice which looks like this.I am confused now. Should i have to pay extra for accessories or does it come with the base price.I am looking for the base model with no add ons. How much will it cost me for this. Yahoo Autos and edmunds says invoice 31253. But these guys say lot higher. PLZZZZZZ HLP!!!!!
Retail Dealer
Vehicle Base Model ....................: $ 34320.00 $ 30088.00
Total Accessories .....................: $ 2040.00 $ 1716.00
# PERFORMANCE FEATURES
* 3.5 Liter 272HP Four Cam 24-Valve V6 Engine
All-Aluminum Engine Construction & Dual VVT-i
* 6-Speed Automatic Transmission w/Sequential Shift
* Front Wheel Drive
* Dual Exhaust with Chrome Finished Tips
* 4-Wheel Independent MacPherson Strut-Type
Suspension with Gas Pressurized Shock Absorbers
Front and Rear Stabilizer Bar
* 4-Wheel Power Assisted Ventilated Front/Solid
Rear Disc Brakes
* 17" Aluminum Alloy 7-Spoke Wheels
* 215/55R17 All-Season Tires
# SAFETY FEATURES
* Dual Front Airbags, Dual Front Knee Airbags, Front
Seat-Mounted Side Impact Airbags, Fr & Rr Side
Curtain Airbags, Supplemental Restraint Sys (SRS)
3-Point Seatbelts for All Seating Positions
* Fr & Rr Outboard Seatbelt Pretensioners with
Force Limiters
* Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) with TRAC
* 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) with
Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD)
* Energy Managing Crumple Zones, Side Door Beams
* Theft-Deterrent System w/ Engine Immobilizer
* Projector-Bulb Headlamps w/ Integrated Foglamps/
Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
* Variable Intermittent Wipers with Mist Control
* Tire Pressure Monitor System
* Tool Kit and First Aid Kit
# LUXURY AND CONVENIENCE FEATURES
* SmartAccess with Push Button Start/Stop

10-Way Power Adjustable Driver & Passenger Seats
includes 2-way Power Lumbar
* Electrochromic Auto-Dimming Interior Mirror
* Heated Outside Mirrors
* One-Touch Open/Close Pwr Tilt-and-Slide Moonroof
* Automatic Dual Zone Climate Control
* Automatic On/Off Headlamps
* Lexus Premium Audio System w/In-Dash 6-Disc CD
Player, Automatic Sound Levelizer (ASL) & MP3
Player Connectivity (miniplug) & 8-Speakers
* Power Front and Rear Windows with Auto One-
Touch Up/Down and Pinch Protection
* Power Door Locks with Anti-Lock Out
* Power Tilt/Telescoping Steering Wheel w/Audio &
Display Functions & Column-Mounted Cruise Control
* Key FOB-Integrated Multi-Function Remote Entry Sys
* Rear Glass Imprinted Antenna w/FM Diversity Sys
* Front Cup Holders with Adjustable Holder Ring
* Rear Arm Rest with Cup Holders
* Heavy-Duty Rear Window Defogger with Timer
* Scheduled Maintenance Indicator Light
* Lexus Personalized Settings
* LED Interior Lighting
* Carpeted Floor Mats
Retail Dealer Total
Vehicle Base Model ..........................:$ 34320.00 $ 30088.00 $ 34320.00
Rear Seat Side Airbags ..................... 250.00 200.00
Bluetooth Audio ............................ 300.00 240.00
Premium Plus Package Includes: ............. 1280.00 1152.00
Perforated Leather Trim Interior with Memory
Driver''s & Front Passenger''s Seats, Outside
Mirrors, and Power Tilt/Telescoping Steering
Wheel, Heated and Ventilated Front Seats, ..
Driver''s Power Cushion Extender, Rain-Sensing
Wipers .....................................
(TOTAL MSRP VALUE OF OPTION $2,480.00) ...
Cargo Net .................................. 64.00 38.00
Trunk Mat .................................. 73.00 43.00
Wheel Locks ................................ 73.00 43.00
--------- --------- ---------
Total Accessories ...........................: $ 2040.00 $ 1716.00 $ 2040.00
Destination Charge ..........................: $ 875.00 $ 875.00
TDA .........................................: $ 515.00
Dealer Holdback .............................: $ 686.00
Whsl. Financial Reserve .....................: $ 343.00
--------- ---------
Total .......................................: $ 34223.00 $ 37235.00

Total accessories??? should i pay extra in addition to base price?is it optional or is it required???


...for installing 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars, exhaust system, and brakes (calipers, rotors and pads)

If you could break it down for me (cost of installing each part seperatly) that would be nice.

I already have the parts, I just need them installed properly.

Everything is aftermarket, and the car is a 2004 jeep grand cherokee overland, 4.7L V8 High Output engine if that helps.
EDIT: I know I can get estimates from shops, Im looking for a ballpark because its gonna be a week or two before I have time to go around getting estimates.


I'm trying to turn my Eclipse into a tuner, so far, I have Oz light-weight racing rims, and a performance exhaust system. The car came with this. Plus neon lights underneath (haha). Right now my main goal is new spark plugs, cold air intake, and new headers in the future. I need to know what is ESSENTIAL to help my car in the beginning. Just list your ideas. Another question i have is Option Racing cold air intakes any good? Are Spyder Auto intakes any good? Just list brands and other things in which you think is key to helping my car become a tuner. Thanks!

(Please know something about cars, and have experience, not just playing Need for Speed, or watching Fast and Furious) =)
Its a 99 eclipse GS. The problem is, idk if i'm going to be able to get a turbo, not because of financial reasons but because of my parents. They wouldnt want me to have a turbo until i'm older probably.


Hi, I have a 91 Subaru Legacy, non-turbo, 4 cylinder,auto. The engine overheats after driving awhile. It will idle forever without overheating, but after driven awhile is when the overheating starts. Also, if the heat is on, it stops blowing warm air as soon as the temp gauge starts to climb. I have flushed the cooling system and replaced the thermostat, but the problem remains. The cooling fans do come on. I also have no symptoms of a blown headgasket such as steam from the exhaust or water in the oil. I don't know any mechanics in the area that I trust, as the ones I have talked to immediately see my being a woman as a source of easy income, and start quoting me hundreds of dollars. If anyone has ever experinced this problem and give some suggestions, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks.


The use of leaded gasoline in vehicles designed for unleaded can increase tailpipe emissions 200 to 800 percent, the EPA has determined. More than one million tons of hydrocarbons and 12 million tons of carbon monoxide were spewed from the tailpipes of cares with defective emission control systems during fiscal year 1983.

Studies show that most people who engage in fuel switching do so to save money--about seven cents a gallon; however, these people are victims of faulty economics, according to Joe Cannon, EPA's assistant administrator for Air and Radiation. "In the long run, the use of leaded gas in the car will more quickly foul the spark plugs, wear out the exhaust system, degrade the oil, and foul the oxygen sensor in new cars, in addition to ruining the catalytic converter," he said.

Cannon estimated that people who substitute leaded for unleaded gasoline will end up paying twelve cents a gallon in extra maintenance and repairs. (From "Autos and Air")


Is there such a thing? I recently coated my exhaust with high temp. anti seize from Sanel Auto Parts, but, as expected, most flaked off and already it started to slightly rust. (I've only had the car for one year and a stainless/chrome system is out of the question.) I live in an area with salt and snow. I understand that exhaust systems rust from the inside out, but it there something I can apply that will at least keep the outer surfaces as rust free as possible?


Ok I went to Autozone and had my check engine light thing checked and it said I had these 12 things wrong with my car , Now im planning to start college this fall and need some insight on what I should get taking care of first or what i can ride (safe) with being put off a while I mean I am pretty sure to get them all taking care of at once would run about $1,000 or more and I don't have that kind of money just sitting around , so if anyone has had any of these problems or know about cars what are the more serious problem on this list and if possible what price range would it cost me to repair..?? Any positive responses will be appreciated thanks ...


Ignition system fault - spark plug . ignition wires , coil

Oxygen sensor defective

Fuel system running very rich or lean - check

Engine misfire condition - repair

Fuel pressure very high or low fuel pump or pressure regulator

Failed EVAP pressure sensor

Blocked hose between purge valve and FTP sensor

Vacuum leak on engine

MAF sensor dirty/defective

Catalytic converter defective

Large vacuum leak

Engine oil leakage into exhaust - valve guide seals , piston rings

O its a Ford Thunderbird 96 8 cylinder


Ok I went to Auto-zone and had my check engine light thing checked and it said I had these 12 things wrong with my car , Now im planning to start college this fall and need some insight on what I should get taking care of first or what i can ride (safe) with being put off a while I mean I am pretty sure to get them all taking care of at once would run about $1,000 or more and I don't have that kind of money just sitting around , so if anyone has had any of these problems or know about cars what are the more serious problem on this list and if possible what price range would it cost me to repair..?? Any positive responses will be appreciated thanks ...


Ignition system fault - spark plug . ignition wires , coil

Oxygen sensor defective

Fuel system running very rich or lean - check

Engine misfire condition - repair

Fuel pressure very high or low fuel pump or pressure regulator

Failed EVAP pressure sensor

Blocked hose between purge valve and FTP sensor

Vacuum leak on engine

MAF sensor dirty/defective

Catalytic converter defective

Large vacuum leak

Engine oil leakage into exhaust - valve guide seals , piston rings

- O and its a Ford Thunderbird 96 8 cylinder


I have a 1992 Ford Explorer with the 4.0L V-6. It's overheating within 5 minutes of starting it. As soon as the temperature raises even slightly, its a straight shot to the red.
I have replaced EVERY component of the cooling system that isn't the engine itself. All hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater core and the radiator cap.
There doesn't appear to be any build-up on the spark-plugs and there is no moisture in the oil, which would clearly indicate a major problem of blown head-gasket. There does however appear to be an extra amount of moisture in the exhaust, but its not smokey, it doesn't leave a cloud and it doesn't smell like anti-freeze or oil (I lost a few brain-cells figuring that last part out). Also, I can't get heat from the heater.
When I first presented this situation to my auto-store, they said the heater-core probably was blocked, so thats why that was changed, but it still won't give me heat and its still overheating. I tried taking out the thermostat to test it, but the overheating ensues.
I'm willing to believe its the head-gasket -- but I don't understand why a blown head gasket would cause this problem and not the usual symptons. Possibly a small hole? And if so, would one of the "liquid head gasket" fixes work (the kind you put in your radiator to seal small leaks).
I know its an old car, it has served me well and I can't expect it to last forever -- so please, if that is your only answer, I GET IT. Any legitimate advice though is greatly appreciated.


This is a auto transmission 1998 Honda Civic DX at 66k miles mark. I bought it at 46k miles and did a couple of major maintenance and tune ups. The spark plugs were replaced at 55k, distributor and exhaust system is also brand new (5k miles ago). The car runs fantastic.

Over last 5-6 months (cold cold city), it is continuously performing poorer on gas mileage. From a sweet 32 MPG to a poor 20 MPG.

I haven't driven this car much for last six months, because I go to school now. That means very less maintenance, too. Finally I took it to a repair shop. The repair guy sounded trustworthy - he first thought (since we smelled gas from the outlet on the top of the engine when it took the cap off, and a lot of air) that it is a bad head gasket spoiling the compression. He took opinion from another mechanic and he then said that the head gasket is OK and it could be valve or piston and it could be costly to open (and grind n stuff).

But then, at the end, he said, let's start with basics. He cleaned the fuel system thoroughly and checked the fuel pressure again. It went up from 30 to 40. And we could smell no gas from the engine. The engine is definitely running smoother now (it could be in my mind though).

The car ALWAYS runs cool (never overheated), no leakages (full coolants/blue antifreeze). Do you think head gasket could spoil the gas mileage and do you think that could be the cause, or we just fixed the problem by simply cleaning the fuel system which wasn't done for last 25k miles.
Kevin M - I thought so too.

Do we think it might be the valve or piston leakage issue? I don't see any oily white fumes (yet to check the oil dip stick) coming out of the exhaust. It is difficult to make out though because of the already white fumes because of subzero temperatures :)


Why do most motorcycle exhaust cost substantially more than car exhaust systems. I know motorcycles use fancier materials such as carbon fiber, titanium etc so that drives up cost a little, but even the slip on models cost a good 350-500. Forget the full systems which run 1,000+ easily. What are the major differences determining cost?
Just to clear up a few things I'm talking about aftermarket exhaust systems for both motorcycles and cars.


I need it for a 1993 K5 Blazer. It does not have a catalytic converter, and I want straights. Do they make them to fit my model auto?


which is an optional part: cross under pipe ,resonator or air duct hose?


I am dealing with two auto shops, 1 company rebuilt the engine in 1/2008 the 2nd company replaced the exhaust system last month. The van was still not running up to speed so I took it back to the 2nd company to find out what the problem was. They told me the engine needed to be replaced. So I take the van back to company 1 and simply stated the service engine light was on. They told me the problem was the catalytic converter was damaged and causing an engine block. Both catalytic converters were replaced by company 2 last month so I go back to company 2. Company 2 tells me that the damage to the catlytic converter was caused by the engine. What should I do next?


My gt is stock. An what are some other things I should do to it?


am using a paint marker to mark a part which is fitted in the exhaust system of auto engines. Paint marker contains xylene... will this marking on the part gets inflame when its fitted down the engine at certain high temperatures( 800- 1000 degree celcius)? wat is the maximum time the xylene compound getting inflammed? After marking, our parts r used after 20-25 days in the engine? I need a professional reply please


Technical Features
• 140-hp, 1.8-Liter, SOHC i-VTEC® 4-Cylinder Engine
• 5-Speed Automatic Transmission
• ULEV-2 (Ultra-Low-Emission Vehicle)
• Drive-by-Wire™ Throttle System
• MacPherson Strut Front Suspension
• Multi-Link Rear Suspension
• Power-Assisted Rack-and-Pinion Steering
• Power-Assisted Ventilated Front Disc/Rear Solid Disk Brakes
• 100,000 +/- Miles No Scheduled Tune-Ups

Safety Features
• 3-Point Seat Belts at All Seating Positions
• Front 3-Point Seat Belts with Automatic Tensioning System
• Driver's and Front Passenger's Seat Belt Reminder
• Dual-Stage, Dual-Threshold Front Airbags (SRS)
• Front Side Airbags with Passenger-Side Occupant Position Detection System (OPDS)
• Side Curtain Airbags
• Driver's and Front Passenger's Active Head Restraints
• Advanced Compatibility Engineering™ (ACE™) Body Structure
• Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)
• Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD)
• Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
• Side-Impact Door Beams
• Daytime Running Lights (DRL)
• Outboard Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren (LATCH)
• Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System

Interior Features
• Air Conditioning with Air-Filtration System
• Honda Satellite-Linked Navigation System™ with Voice Recognition
• Bluetooth® HandsFreeLink®
• 350-Watt AM/FM/CD Premium Audio System with 7 Speakers, Including Subwoofer
• XM® Radio
• Digital Audio-Card Reader
• MP3/Windows Media®Audio (WMA) Playback Capability
• MP3/Auxiliary Input Jack
• USB Audio Interface
• Speed-Sensitive Volume Control (SVC)
• Power Windows with Auto-Up/Down Driver's Window
• Power Door Locks with Auto-Lock Feature
• Cruise Control
• Blue Ambient Console Lighting
• Steering Wheel-Mounted Cruise/Audio Controls
• Tilt and Telescopic Steering Column
• Beverage Holders, Front and Rear
• Center Console with Sliding Armrest and Storage Compartment
• Passenger-Side Walk-In Feature
• Map Lights
• Floor Mats
• Driver's and Front Passenger's Vanity Mirrors
• Rear Window Defroster with Timer
• 12-Volt Power Outlet (Front and Center Console)
• Maintenance Minder™ System
• Steering Wheel-Mounted Cruise/Audio/Navi and HandsFreeLink® Controls

Exterior Features
• One-Touch Power Moonroof with Tilt Feature
• Security System with Remote Entry and Trunk Release
• Integrated Rear-Window Antenna
• Body-Colored Power Side Mirrors
• Body-Colored Door Handles
• Variable Intermittent Windshield Wipers
• Multi-Reflector Halogen Headlights
• Rear Decklid Spoiler
• Chrome Exhaust Finisher
• 16" Alloy Wheels


So I'm sure alot of people might find this a silly question, but basically I've always wanted to be able to breathe underwater. But I don't live in an area where there is any good place to do any scuba diving, not to mention that scuba gear is way too expensive. I don't have enough money to buy scuba gear or travel anywhere to do it.

What I've been trying to find out for a long time is if there is any way I can actually get a very cheap device to play with. I basically only want to use it as a pool toy, and not much more. I'd never be going deeper than 10 feet tops, and I'd never need more than 10 breaths at a time.

I just found about about the "Spare air" system that looks like exactly what I need although its definely very pricey, and I can't figure out how much it costs to refill, or if there is any way to perhaps put a schrader valve in the tank, or hook up some other modified tank, so I can refill with a foot pump, or one of those little 12v electric compressors ( I know it will never get up to the true psi, but enough for 5-10 breaths would be good.

For what I'm looking to do (basically just stay under water longer at the pool), is this my best bet, or is there a cheaper option.


One other question on a side note. Before I even found out about this spare air, I actually started building my own device. I used some pressure rated pvc (up to 250psi), to make the tank, and a schrader valve to fill it with my foot pump/electric 12v auto compressor, and it has some air hose leading to a blow valve to blow air in my mouth. Along with a pressure guage and also a regulator I can adjust down to any psi so the air doesn't blow in my mouth too fast.

Haven't used it yet since its winter, but it seems like it will work, seems like I'll get about 5 breaths off the tank if its filled to 120psi, its just so clunky though. Is there any other plans out there for something similar, or a way to cheaply modify my device to have a regular regulator type thing instead of my blowgun valve?

Also, judging by the way my device is made, are there any safety concerns I need to know about? Like I can't get the bends in 10 feet of water right? And the air from my foot pump or 12v compressor is safe to breathe right? Since neither makes exhaust or takes oil.

Thanks.


I just went to Auto Zone and they ran the computer on my car (2002 Toyota Camry) because the engine light was on, this is what they said:

The PCM has determined that the catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions.

Explanation- The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable Causes-
1. Catalytic Converter defective (Failure possibly due to #2, 3, or 4.)
2. Engine misfire or running condition
3. Large vacuum leak
4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust- valve guide seals, piston rings.
(I have no idea what #4 means, that's just what the paper says.)


I drive probably 5 miles every day, and I'm not a crazy driver. Is this something that I need to take care of immediately or can it wait till my next paycheck? How much will it run me, and what's the chance that my husband can do it so we don't have to pay for labor? Finally, how do you fix something like this? Thanks a lot!



Hi, i was just wondering what youre opinion would be to get next on a 2004 toyota celica, i already have a K&N cold air intake, Spyder auto headers, and a Greddy PE II cat back exhaust system with HKS muffler. Im looking for something else that would make my car go faster ( excluding turbos, superchargers, and nitrous) any ideas?


I want that "growl" sound. It is a 2008 Toyota Matrix XR (auto). I just want to get an exhaust tip, not a whole exhuast system. Will an exhaust tip achieve this? If not, what should i do in order to get that "growl" sound without it being too expensive? Thank you!

P.S.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!


I'm wanting to build my own computer, but this is my first time doing it. I'm fairly sure all the parts i have picked out are compatible and i have researched a fair bit but i would just like to make sure.

Also if anybody has any tips or anything please let me know.

The specs are:
CPU
AMD Phenom 9550 Quad Core 4meg CACHE 2.2Ghz Socket AM2 Retail Box AM2+
Item Code cpAMphenom_9550
AMD Phenom 9550 Quad Core 4meg CACHE 2.2Ghz Socket AM2 Retail Box AM2+


Motherboard
MSI K9N2-SLi-PREMIUM nForce 750A Dual Channel DDR2 1066Mhz 8 Channel Audio SATA GBLan PCI-Ex
Item Code mbMSk9n2_sli_platinum
MSI K9N2-SLi-PREMIUM

CPU
• AMD® Phenom/Athlon/Sempron CPU.
Please refer to CPU Support for compatible CPU; the above description is for reference only.
Hyper Transport Bus
• HyperTransport 3.0 supporting speed up to 5200MT/s
- AM2 CPU supports HyperTransport 1.0/2.0
- AM2+ CPU supports HyperTransport 3.0
Chipset
• NVIDIA® nForce 750a SLI single chipset
Main Memory
• Supports Dual DDR2 667/800/1066 (1066 for AM2+ only)
- 4 DDR2 DIMMs (240pin / 1.8V)
- Supports a maximum memory size up to 8GB.
Slots
• 1 mazarine PCI Express x16 slot with x16 operation (PCI Express Bus SPEC V2.0 compliant)
• 1 light-blue PCI Express x16 slot with x8 operation (PCI Express Bus SPEC V2.0 compliant)
• When 2 PCI Express x16 slots are all installed, the PCIE x 16 lanes will auto arrange form x16/ x0 to x8/ x8. Do not use the light-blue slot when only one PCI Express x16 card is installed.
• 1 PCI Express x1 slots
• 2 PCI slots, support 3.3V/ 5V PCI bus interface.

Memory
KINGSTON Twin Pack HYPER X 2x2 gig (4gig) DDR2 1066Mhz CL7 (PC2-8500 CL7)
Item Code memKGhyper_x_4_1066
KINGSTON Twin Pack HYPER X 2x2 gig (4gig) DDR2 1066Mhz CL7 (PC2-8500 CL7) Model: KHX8500AD2K2/4G

HDD
Western Digital 250 gig 7200rpm SATAII JS
Item Code hddWE250sata_2
Western Digital 250 gig 7200rpm SATAII JS with Data-Lifeguard

Video Card
MSI 9600GT OVERCLOCK V801 512meg 256Bit DDR3 Core/Memory 700Mhz/1900Mhz Dual DVI TV-OUT
Item Code viMSn9600gt_oc_512
MSI 9600GT (V801) Model: N9600GT-T2D512-OC

Core/Memory
700MHz Core
512MB GDDR3 1900MHz Memory
On-board Function
Over Clock Edition
HDTV-out / Dual DVI-I Connectors
Dual-Link DVI Support
HDMI / HDCP Support
SLI Support

Case
iCute ZL08-5G-BB BLACK ATX Case 500watt Power Massive 25cm Side Cooling Fan
Item Code casICzl08_5g_black
iCute ZL08-5G-BB BLACK

Specification:
Case Model: ZL08 Series
Case Type: Middle Tower
Dimension: 185 x 480 x 410 mm (W x D x H)
Meterial: 0.45 mm SGCC
Motherboards: ATX/Micro ATX
Drive Bays: External 4 x 5.25" 1 x 3.5" Hidden 5 x 3.5"
Side I/O: USB*2 + AUDIO
FAN: Front (Intake) - 8/12 cm 1 (optional)
Real (Exhaust) - 8 cm 1 (optional)
Side (Intake) - Metal Side Panel + 25cm Fan
CPU Area - 8/12cm 1 (optional)
VGA Area - 8/12 cm 1 (optional)
Feature: Excellent VGA (SLI system) cooling
Fantastic ventilation
High performance and low noise level

WILL NOT FIT LARGE CPU COOLERS LIKE ZALMAN 9xxx SERIES COOLERS

Keyboard
LOGITECH G15 Gaming Keyboard with LCD Display Exclusive GamePanel
Item Code keyLOg15
LOGITECH G15

Good intel and the proper gear are the keys to victory, even in gaming. The Logitech® G15 keyboard keeps you informed and outfitted to win.
With the Logitech-exclusive GamePanel™ LCD, you can easily find out what server your friends are using to play Battlefield 2142™, or receive notification when your World of Warcraft® battleground becomes available. You can even identify who’s speaking in Ventrilo™. Create useful macros on the fly and play them back with a single press of a G-key. Illuminated characters allow you to play late into the night.
The Logitech® G15 gives you a winning advantage, and everyone knows it’s more fun when you win.

Control
* High-visibility GamePanel™ LCD: Displays game stats and other important system information.
* Illuminated characters: Choose from three levels of brightness. Locate keys easily in both bright and low-light conditions.
* Six programmable G-keys: Perform single keystrokes or complex macros with six fully programmable G-keys. Create macros on the fly, without having to pause the action.

Convenience
* Intelligent cable management: Keep mouse, headset, and other cords out of the way by routing them through channels on the underside of the keyboard.
* Instant media access: Use the convenient one-touch controls for volume and media playback.

Mouse
LOGITECH G5 Laser Mouse USB Retail Box Now With 2x Thumb Buttons
Item Code mouLOg5_laser
LOGITECH G5 Laser

Tune for game domination. The Logitech G5 Laser Mouse gives you the edge with a 2000 dpi laser engine sending out an astounding 500 USB reports per second* for precision response at blinding speeds. A Logitech exclusive, the G5's 36-gram adjustable weight cartridge gives you thousands of variations on balance and weight—including one that´s perfect for your unique gaming style. Polytetrafluo


I've got a 1994 Econoline that I'm trying to nurse a few more years out of. One of the more recent problems it is encountering is, upon startup, the check engine light comes on. The vehicle starts/runs smoothly, however, of recent, when accelerating past 40mph, especially if wanting a "quick" acceleration like stomping on the gas pedal, there will result in no acceleration, no power. The vehicle can get beyond 40mph but you have to anticipate and make sure that you have a steady acceleration. However, for instance, if driving up a steep incline of a hill say, the vehicle will bog down, barely making it up the hill with the gas pedal fully stomped. Everything that I've read seems to point to a clogged catalytic converter. This could be, the exhaust system is old (replace once, I believe). I've bandaged the current system trying to make it through the next inspection. One interesting thing is that if we downshift the auto transmission into 2nd gear when going up the hill, we get the instant acceleration we are looking for and expect. Any thoughts on whether this is the catalytic converter or something else? The next question (for me) if it is the catcon is whether I'm willing to pay the (what is it?) $1500k for an entire new exhaust system...
Other details: No rotten egg smell. My "bandage" on the exhaust includes some metal cans around exhaust pipes held together with bands.

re: "tranny" For some time before *this problem* the van would inexplicably (only sporadically tho), rev with no power (like tranny slipped) for 5-10 secs. This problem happened for about 1 year (once a week max) but now doesn't manifest itself anymore. We had a similar sympton/problem with a MAF last summer---though instead of bogging down with no power, engine just cut off and couldn't restart. Had MAF replaced, then problem resolved.

Another funny symptom of the past couple of weeks since I changed oil (been doing myself for 30 years) is that after stomping down on gas and getting no extra power, I get the smell of fresh oil (not burnt). ???


I hope someone out there can help me with this problem. I hope some one would tell me what are the legal steps I can take to solve this, and maybe put an end to this game that most auto repair shop are playing to get more money out of our pocket.
It started like this; I took my car for inspection and I was told because the engine light is on can’t pass the test and they have to run diagnostics test and the charge for that would be $89.00, I told them this test was done and I was told it is the EGR( exhaust gas recirculation) system, and they told me that is not good, they have to do the test so they can pin point the problem and find the actual part that is not working and change that, not keep changing part until they get to bad one, we have to do the test our self. So they charged me for the inspection and told me you have fifteen days to solve the problem and bring it back for the inspection other wise you have to pay for the inspection again.
First of all if you want to do the repair and your are calling yourself specialist you must be able to find the defective part and replace it, and when you are charging people for labor what is the meaning of this diagnostics charge, isn’t this just another excuse to get more money from people? And when you did not do anything why did you charge me for the inspection?
I tried to solve the problem, I took my car to other places and I was told the problem is the EGR (code 401), so I bought the valve and I changed it, and it took me 15 minutes to change it for which some places were going to charge me 3 hours of labor to change it and after driving the car for 10 miles the engine light came back on and since I was not able to solve the problem I had no choice but to take the car to the same place before I lose that inspection and I did that and asked them to do what ever needed to be done so I can have my inspection. And I told them I have changed the EGR valve.
After about half an hour they told me;” the problem was the TRANSDUCER” and because I, never in the past have heard that word and never even seen that word in the TOYOTA book, I thought it’s better if I don’t say any thing. So I asked them how much this is going to cost? I was told “part and labor is going to be $ 229.00 and I said it is OK. And I went home.
After few hours I called them to see what happened to my car and they told me they changed the part and took the car out for the road test and after some driving the ENG light came back on and they had to look for the problem. And there is another part that they have to change!!! So what happened to pin pointing the problem?
To make the long story short; they called me after five pm and told me since they are going to be closed soon they can deliver my car and they asked for my credit card number they told me every thing is ok and they are going to run another test and put the sticker on my car and bring it to me.
They did that and they gave me the bill for $ 335.79. It was almost 6 pm on Saturday, Sep,28,08 or even later that they brought my car and their shop was closed and Sunday they are also closed, so I called them very early Monday morning and ask them to leave all the parts that they changed on my car, because I would like to pick those parts, immediately I have received this respond; “we do not keep the parts and we dumped them, I told them please get them out of the trash can even if you did so, I would like to have those parts back, I was told we will check.
After some time I have received a call and was informed that they do not have the parts, because the trash truck was there on Monday morning and pick them up and they are gone.
Believe me, I knew they are lying, and did not give up, by calling them and talking, and trying to reason with them, they come up with this story; we have find one of the parts it was under the table, but we can not find the other one, (this is the one that I told them it was working and you should not have changed that). At this time they offer me, “the best we can do for you is giving you $40.00 back”. I told him thank you and hang up.
I was not about to give up, I called the corporate office of that business and talk to a gentleman who I was told is in charge and will take care of this problem; I should mention that now it is almost 20 days past, and the gentleman told me, he is going to talk to the mechanic and people in that location and get back to me, and after few hours and couple of times calling me and asking question, he finally called me and said.
“I asked the mechanic who worked on your car to go and look for those parts and they find your parts you can pick them up. Now I have the parts but I am sure the part is not going to work this part was check at other place and it was OK I am positive that they have tampered with this part before they give it back to me to save themselves, so I hope some one can help me and guide me so maybe I can put an end to this non since that repair s


I have an 07' scion tc that sucks on gas mileage. Will something like a cold air intake or exhaust system help?


okay I got an aem sri for a year and no cel. Then a month ago went and got vibrant race header /delete cat and cel came on even with angle defouler the shop that installed, they said that it might be my stock exhaust causing back pressure. so i decide to get an exhaust system apexi ws2, installed it reset ecu and still have a cel. so I went to auto zone and read what the code was popping out was P0135 and P0141 did anyone ever get this fix and how to? I know that the error codes are a heater malfunction from 1st and 2nd sensor, could it have any thing to do with the header and if it did shouldn't a code come on for the catalytic


Im going to start to do a lot of work on my car. Putting Adjustable shocks (struts w/e they are) to fit 20's or 22's, a full exhaust, New sound system, and i want my car to run in the 12 second range. (if not possible then try to make it as fast as possible) and i was wondering how much would it take to supercharge my car install and everything? it has an auto trans so i heard that turbo wouldn't be so good. any help would b Greatly Appreciated. thanks


Does every breath of polluted air you take contribute to your dioxin body burden, causing mutagenic, carcinogenic, and neurotoxic effects?

Or do the toxins present in auto exhaust get rapidly flushed out of the body by those with healthy immune systems, good diets, etc?

I know there are a lot of types of dioxins; they are produced essentially when anything is burned, but the deadly kind are those formed from when plastic or chlorinated substances are composted. What's the case when it comes to auto and diesel exhaust? And how abundant are dioxins in the exhaust? Like, would you have to be literally funneled to the tailpipe to inhale them, or just by trailing a couple car length's behind a car with a smoking tailpipe for a few minutes would you be getting exposure? Or by being stuck in stop & go traffic, walking through densely crowded and active parking lots, etc?

Can this stuff kill brain cells and diminish cognitive function, whilst also detiorating my lungs, or not? In my case, I'm an eighteen year old male who eats a balanced and healthy diet, works out regularly and frequently, and has a strong immune system.

And what about diesel? Ie. A week back I got boxed in by diesel dumptrucks at an intersection, and nearly sufficated on the insufferable fumes. Is my body now chalk full of dioxins as a result? Do I probably have damage congruent with years worth of heavy smoking or otherwise industrial dioxin exposure? Or is the level I took in equal to eating a fish for dinner or just drinking milk?

Lastly... since dioxins cling to fat, what becomes of ingested dioxins in bodies in which there is an extremely miniscule percentage of overral body fat? Do they get extruded and expunged right back out, as opposed to stockpiling quite as much? I have a metabolism that enables me to eat eight full meals a day, and I'm bone skinny. Does this I probably have less collection of toxins in my body than most other people?




Generally speaking, how much would it cost at an auto shop?


I went to auto zone and had my car scanned. They gave me four problems that I have listed below. Obviously I have more than one problem. But which one is more important? And which one should I replace first?

P0306 - a misfire has occurred in cylinder #6.

Definition:
Cylinder misfire detected - cylinder #6.
Explanation:
The power train control module monitors the crankshaft speed and had detected a misfire
condition.
Probable causes:
1. Ignition system fault
spark plug(s).
ignition switch.
wire set.
ignition coil.
2. Vacuum leak.
3. Injector fault.
4. High or low fuel pressure.

P0401 - there is insufficient flow in the exhaust gas recirculation system.

Definition:
EGR system fault (exhaust gas recirculation).
Explanation:
The ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system.
Probable causes:
1. Blocked passage on EGR system.
2. Failed EGR valve.
3. EGR solenoid faulty.
4. Failed EGR pressure sensor.

P0443 - a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for the purge control valve in the evaporative emission control system.

Definition:
EVAP (Evaporative Emission System) purge/vent solenoid circuit condition.
Explanation:
The solenoids and system wiring are monitored for opens or shorts.
Probable causes:
1. Purge or vent solenoids defective.
2. Check connector and wiring.
3. Fuel saturated vapor canister.
4. Failed EVAP vent solenoid.

P0500 - a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for the vehicle speed sensor.

Definition:
Vehicle speed sensor malfunction.
Probable Causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition.
2. Poor electrical connection.
3. Failed VSS.


i have a 96 camaro V6 3.8 auto that has a smoking problem. it has a cold air intake, dual exhaust and no cat. thats all the mods i know about since i bought it used. if i change the oil or add stp to oil it wont smoke as much for awhile until the oil breaks down some. i never have to add oil which makes me think its not oil burning but why will it stop a little if i change oil... Hmmm. anyway if im idleing at a light and then go its like a cloud behind me. the car runs great, no misfire, plenty of power, im afraid to tune it up because it runs so good. i was thinking that maybe it could be the exhaust system not having enough force to expell the harmfull pollution into our ozone. it dosent seem to feel like a lot of force coming from exhaust. im not real concerned about it because it runs so well, its just a little embarrassing. any help or ideas would be great. thanks all


see above... I'm a single mother with no family or friends areound and am running low on cash right now. My engine is overheating within just a few minutes of driving. Coolant levels look fine. Not sure if the mixture is ok. No obvious leaks have been found anywhere. Also the oil color is fine and there is no additional white smoke from the exhaust. I have done other auto repair before but have never ever messed with the cooling system.

The fans come on ok but even at an idle the engine will not cool down on its own. It must be shut off.

I am considering changing the thermostat and flushing the system but HAVE CERTAIN CLUE where to start. Most references indicate thermostats being off of the water pump but I'm lost.

I am VERY mechanically inclined and any help would be appreciated.

I know that I should drain the coolant add water... and cleaner or whatever its called and run the car at idle for awhile then drain again and repeat. Then add a 50.50 mix


I have a 07 tiburon 4 cyl full exhaust headers no cat intake and a t3 tubo system its a auto tranny with slap shift help me out i shouldda bought the stick..........





If so, is it in high quantities? Like, everytime you walk through a parking lot and can detect residual auto exhaust odor, are you bioaccumulating lead in your system and incurring brain damage?